Sunday, October 11, 2015

L'Éthique.




Savoir dire "non".
Lorsque j'ai commencé à recevoir des demandes de partenariats, j'ai eu comme un sentiment d'accomplissement; c'était presque une flatterie de constater que tout ce travail, ce temps passé à écrire, à faire des photos et à les trier pendant des heures était enfin récompensé. Il ne faut pas le cacher, la majorité de ces demandes de partenariats proviennent des sociétés - le plus souvent basées en Chine - qui proposent des vêtements à prix très abordables. L'objectif d'un partenariat est donc de choisir quelques vêtements sur le site de la compagnie et de les promouvoir sur le blog. C'est vrai, de telles opportunités son alléchantes, il est difficile d'y résister. Qui n'aime pas recevoir gratuitement des vêtements, de plus quand le choix est large et qu'on peut facilement trouver son bonheur ? J'y ai cédé plus d'une fois, mais ne recommencerait pas. J'ai toujours quelques vêtements que je dois promouvoir qui traînent depuis des mois dans ma penderie et je me tiendrai à la promesse que j'ai faite de les intégrer dans mes tenues, mais ce sera la dernière fois.
Je ne tiens pas à blâmer qui que ce soit ni à retourner ma veste contre les sociétés qui m'ont offertes des produits. Cependant, une pensée m'est venue à l'esprit. Dans tout ce processus, quelle est l'image véhiculée ? Ces vêtements font partis de la production de masse privilégiant la quantité à la qualité, de plus réalisés dans on-ne-sait quelles conditions. J'ai réalisé que je soutenais un marché qui est en fait à l'opposé de mes principes, de ce à quoi j'aspire et que je veux promouvoir ici.
À l'heure actuelle, il me semble beaucoup plus important de privilégier l'artisanat, les petites sociétés plus durables qui font leur nid, et ce dans tous les domaines. Sans doute est-ce le fait d'avoir compris la difficulté du métier de couturière, avoir compris la vrai valeur d'un vêtement de part le temps qu'on passe à le faire, de part le coût de sa matière première et la difficulté de concurrencer cette course au "cheap" lorsque l'on cherche à vivre d'une passion. J'ai appliquer cela à ma manière de consommer, que ce soit en alimentaire, en ameublement ou en habillement, mais j'ai toujours eu du mal à dire "non" aux cadeaux. C'était donc hypocrite de ma part d'accepter ce marché, car j'aurais dû savoir que je faisais quelque chose à l'encontre de mes principes mais j'essayais de m'en convaincre en pensant que ce genre de partenariat m'aiderait à aller plus loin. C'était une erreur. Après avoir reçu des articles défectueux à l'odeur entêtante de plastique, et avoir eu affaire dernièrement à une société - TinyDeal - qui ignore délibérément mes e-mails pour ne pas envoyer le dût de la gagnante du dernier concours*, j'ai réalisé qu'il fallait que ça s'arrête. Je n'accorde plus aucune confiance à ces sociétés parasites qui pullulent et se ressemblent, et ne ferait des partenariats qu'avec des enseignes qui renvoient une image plus unique, créative et plus respectueuse des consommateurs ainsi que de l'environnement. Car, au fond, l'importance de ce que l'on porte ne s'arrête pas seulement à l'aspect visuel.

* Ce genre de méprise est la première qui est arrivée dans le peu de concours que j'ai lancé. Je tiens encore à m'excuser auprès de la gagnante. Je suis en colère auprès de TinyDeal qui n'a pas respecté sa part du contrat et affiche un vrai manque de professionnalisme, prouvant ainsi le peu d'égards qu'ils accordent à l'éthique et l'aspect humain du commerce.


Feel free to say "No".
When I started to get partnership proposals, I had a strong feeling of accomplishment. It was flattering to know that all my work, the time spent to write, to take a bunch of pictures, and sort through them was finally rewarded. It is important to clarify that most of these partnership proposals were sent by companies - mostly based in China - selling clothing for low prices. Basically, all what I had to do was promoting clothes I would choose among their website. These opportunities were seductive, it was hard to resist. Who doesn't like to receive free clothes, especially when the huge amount of products helps to find what we like ? I accepted several of these proposals but I don't intend to do so again. There are still some clothes in the depth of my closet that are waiting, for months now, to be promoted and I will stick to my promise to integrate them in my outfits, but those will be the last ones.
My goal isn't to blame anyone who is involved in these kind of partnerships nor attack the companies with whom I worked. However, a thought passed through my mind : in doing these reviews, what image do I promote ? Those clothes are part of the mass production focusing on quantity rather than quality, and made in god-knows-what conditions. I realised that I was supporting something that is in total contradiction with my values and with what I want my blog to be about.
These days, it is more important to me to consume handicrafts and buy from small companies who have a different approach of marketing than these big, all-that-matters-is-profits companies. Maybe it is because I have been a seamstress and I understand the real value of clothes from the time needed to make them, the cost of the raw materials, and the difficulty of being part of the competition in this "race to the bottom" in terms of cost when you try to make a living out of your passion. I have tried to apply those rules to my own consumption, to food, furniture, clothing and everything else, but I've always had difficulties to say "no" to gifts. It was hypocritical to accept these deals, because I should have known I was doing something that was against my principles. I convinced myself that it was acceptable because I thought those partnerships would help me to explore fashion and inspire me artistically; I was a mistaken. After receiving defective products perfumed with a strong plastic smell and dealing with a company - TinyDeal - which ignored all my e-mails when I asked why they hadn't yet sent the prize to the winner of the last giveaway*, I realised I had to stop accepting partnerships with these kinds of companies. I don't have any more trust in them and decided I will only cooperate with businesses which care about the artistic side of fashion and not just the money, and which are respectful of their customers and the environment. In the end, what we wear is more than just how we look.

* This is the first time such a situation has happened in all of the giveaways I have done. I want to apologize again to the winner. I am upset with TinyDeal for not respecting its part of our agreement; their behaviour shows a total lack of professionalism, proving that they put short-term profit first at the expense of eveything else.


Kimono : Dresslink / Sweater "The Old Widows Walk" : The Orphans Arms / Black Pants : River Island x Asos / Shoes & Hat : Second Hand

2 comments:

  1. I couldn't agree more with what you've said in this post, all of these thoughts have been going through my head for some weeks now and I've also decided to put an end to some of these collabs because in the end they never feel completely right...Let's support small creative companies who put so much work and love into their clothing instead of mass production of low quality stuff who are also most of the time rip-offs of some trendy designer pieces.

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  2. I have exactly the same thoughts. Once I received a piece of clothing from sammy dress, it was so poorly made and smelled like plastic or something worse, the smell went out after washing it two times. Then I said 'never again'. I don't want to support such companies. I prefer to buy second hand, make my own clothes or to support young designers.
    I change my life step by step - I stopped eating meat and diary, started buying vegan cosmetics, I don't buy what I don't really need. Slow food, slow fashion and slow life.

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